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The heel at the back pays homage to Dorothy’s ruby slippers from the original film, The Wizard of Ounces (1939). The House’s heritage and its founder’s subversive spirit are highly effective sources of inspiration, a golden thread connecting past and present. Her ensemble was elegantly understated except for one subversive detail, a mermaid button with naked, nipple accented breasts. Her associates included photographer Cecil Beaton, art critic Clive Bell, artwork historian Kenneth Clark and V&A curator, and later director, John Pope‑Hennessy. She selected this burgundy velvet ensemble from the Autumn 1937 assortment to put on for her portrait, published in society magazine, The Tatler, in January 1938. Rayon marocain, steel strip, beads, crystals ( jacket); painted resin (buttons); rayon marocain (dress)
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The jacket with enamel globe buttons (right) represented a united world at a time of war. The tour featured an ‘American Designed Wardrobe’ that chosen US manufacturers might reproduce. Eyes, lips and noses float on the extensive sleeves, whereas gold and tasselled breasts protruding from the bodice are accentuated by swirling baroque coils. Typically easy in silhouette however exceptional in their embellishment, these jackets supplied a canvas on which to show beautiful haute couture expertise. Dazzling and daring, Elsa Schiaparelli’s jackets accomplished her striking evening fits, combining lavish embroidery, sumptuous textiles and weird fastenings.
